Mt. Gasherbrum is identified as the isolated collection of high peaks in the Karakoram which is situated at the northeast end of the 36 mile Baltoro glacier. A semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier is formed by the group. The first attempt was made by a French Expedition which was led by H. De Segogne in 1936. But sadly they couldn’t climb beyond Camp V which is situated at the height of 6797m. However, the group of climbers named Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman reached the summit at first in 1958 A.D. This was led by Nich Clinch.
This peak is also known as the venue of the world’s first 8,000m climb which is in pure Alpine Style. The beginning of the climb is done from the bottom of the mountain with all the required gears. Mt. Gasherbrum I is the least popular 8,000m peak. But it has the best climbing routes and gives you exciting experience throughout your climb. It has less than 200 ascents and is listed in the tenth spot on the list of ascent for 8,000m peaks. It is also one of the peaks with the least deaths.
The most common way to climb Mt. Gasherbrum I is to start from the western side that leads to “The Japanese Couloir” which is located on the top of the north-west face.
Mt. Gasherbrum I, Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak
Karakoram Mountain range
Day 1: Arrival in Islamabad
After you arrive in Islamabad, our representative will welcome you and help you to transfer to a hotel. We’ll discuss the expedition later in the evening.
Day 2: Rest day in Islamabad (585m)
We’ll take rest and then prepare for the trip on this day. We’ll buy the required materials and gears for the expedition. We’ll also visit different places in Islamabad.
Day 3: Fly to Skardu (2,228m)
Early in the morning, we’ll fly towards Skardu which is a city in Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan. The city is the significant doorway to the eight-thousanders of nearby Karakoram Mountain range.
Day 4: Rest day in Skardu
We’ll explore the whole Skardu on this day. Skardu is famous for different beautiful mountains including Karakoram Mountain Range and Indus River.
Day 5: Drive to Askole (2,600m)
The next day, we drive towards Askole. It is a small town located in the Shigar Valley. It is the gateway for the world’s 14 highest peaks known as Eight-thousanders and is located in the remote region of Karakoram Mountains 3040m above the sea level.
Day 6: Trek to Jhola (3,185m)
Jhola is a beautiful valley that opens out to reveal the Biafo Glacier which is flowing for more than 50 km from the Hispar La pass to the Braldu. The route goes through different snout of the glacier which gives you the experience of a harsh, stark environment which forms the base of these great mountains.
Day 7: Trek to Paiju (3,383m)
We trek towards Paiju the next morning. The trail goes at the riverside, switching up and down and somewhat according to the level of erosion and water levels of Braldu
Day 8: Rest day in Paiju
We’ll take rest and then prepare for the next day.
Day 9: Trek to Urdukar (4,130m)
It is the easier walk that follows a good trail at the side of the Baltoro with two different feeding glaciers that cross enroute.
Day 10: Trek to Goro II (4,250m)
Walking towards Goro II goes through the trail that crosses to the center where it is easier trekking. We trek over rolling mounds of rock and scree steering slightly northwards to a moraine hollow. We’ll enjoy our day in Goro II.
Day 11: Trek to Shagharing
The next morning, we move towards Shagharing. The trail goes through several ups and downs along with beautiful settlements of local people.
Day 12: Trek to G I Basecamp (5,000m)
Early in the morning, we move towards Gasherbrum I Basecamp. You can see the outstanding view of Mt. Gasherbrum peaks, Baltoro Kangri and Mitra Peak.
Day 13 - Day 41: Climbing Period [Summit (8,068m)]
Our main climb begins on the 13th day of the expedition. The number of days to reach the summit depends on the weather condition, physical fitness, and experience of the climbers.
Day 42: Cleaning up Basecamp
After reaching the top of the summit at the height of 8,068m, we prepare to go back to our home. We clean the basecamp and wait for another day.
Day 43: Trek to Goro II
On the 43rd day of the expedition, we trek backward to Goro II.
Day 44: Trek to Khuburtze
The trek goes through climbs towards Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge.
Day 45: Trek to Mundung
We continue our trek towards Mundung which passes through various beautiful natural beauties along with the local settlements.
Day 46: Trek to Askole
The next day, we trek towards Askole through the desert landscape and cross the several suspension bridges.
Day 47: Drive to Skardu
We drive back to Skardu with the spectacular views of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Day 48: Fly to Islamabad
The next morning, we fly back to Islamabad. We cross several passes thickly forested in pine birth as we wind our way towards the south down to the plains.
Day 49: Leisure day in Islamabad
We spend our leisure day in Islamabad observing the beautiful views of the city.
Day 50: Final Departure
Our expedition comes to an on this day. Our staff will help you with your final departure
Inclusion / Exclusion
Airport Pickup and drop
5 nights accommodation in Islamabad including breakfast
All transportation costs in Pakistan during the Mt Gasherbrum expedition
Climbing permit, all necessary documents, National Park fee, Garbage disposal fee
Food for trekking and whole expedition
Government liaison officer and allowances
Base Camp cook & helpers
Porter from/ to Basecamp
Insurance for staff (Medical & emergency rescue)
50 kg luggage per member
Tents (Dining, kitchen, store, toilet, hot shower), form mattresses, table, chairs, and necessary kitchen gear
Generator or solar panel and heater are available at Base Camp
Daily Weather forecast available during the expedition
3 bottles oxygen for each member and 2 bottles oxygen for each climbing Sherpa
Extra oxygen for emergencies is available at Base Camp (costs as per use)
branded tents will be provided for the expedition and each expedition member have an individual tent at Base Camp
A set of Top Out or Summit mask & regulator will be provided for each member and climbing Sherpa
Satellite phone and walkie talkie will be provided to each member and staff
A professional climbing Sherpa will be provided to each member
Types of equipment’s are provided (Gas, burner, high food, dynamic rope, and other necessary items)
Sherpa’s climbing equipment allowance, carrying bonus, and daily wages
Gasherbrum climbing certificate issued by ACOP (after successfully ascent to mt Gasherbrum)
Meal (Lunch & dinner) in Pakistan hotel stay
Insurance (Travel, high altitude, medical & emergency rescue)
Personal expenses (Telephone, internet, laundry, any alcohol, personal equipment, and shopping)
Pakistan visa fees
Emergency rescue evacuation cost
Bonus for Sherpa after Summit wisely, make a helicopter rescue and search policy in your Insurance